A 3-DAY WEEKEND IN MIYAGI PREFECTURE: MATSUSHIMA, CAT ISLAND, ONSEN & COASTAL JAPAN

Miyagi Prefecture was not originally on top of my Japan travel list, but after this 3-day weekend, I can honestly say it became one of my favorite short trips from Tokyo.

It has everything I love: easy train access, peaceful coastal towns, ryokan stays, cats, seafood, tiny islands, beautiful temples, and that slower countryside atmosphere that feels so refreshing after Tokyo.

For this trip, we took the train from Tokyo to Sendai. With the fastest Shinkansen, the journey only takes 1h30, which makes Miyagi a very realistic destination for a long weekend from Tokyo.

Book your Tokyo to Sendai train easily with the Omio app: link.

Since we only had a 3-day weekend and 2 nights, I decided not to stay in Sendai city. From the train station, Sendai looked big, modern, and probably worth exploring another time, but for this trip I wanted to go straight to the coast.

So we headed directly to Matsushima.

Quick overview of our 3-day Miyagi itinerary

Day 1: Tokyo to Sendai by Shinkansen, local train to Matsushima, lunch at Harry’s Junction, ryokan check-in, island hopping in Matsushima, dinner in town.

Day 2: Day trip to Tashirojima, the famous cat island, then Ishinomaki tsunami memorial sites and seafood dinner.

Day 3: Zuiganji Temple, Kanrantei Tea House, Matsushima Bay cruise to Shiogama, sushi lunch, then back to Tokyo.

It was a busy itinerary, but it never felt rushed in a bad way. The local trains are easy, the distances are short, and everything has that relaxed seaside pace.

Day 1: Tokyo to Matsushima via Sendai

Taking the train from Tokyo to Sendai

We started the trip by taking the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Sendai.

The fastest train takes around 1h30, which is honestly amazing. You leave Tokyo and, not even two hours later, you are already in northern Japan, ready to explore Miyagi Prefecture.

We booked our train with Omio, which is convenient if you want to compare train options and organize your route in advance.

Tokyo to Sendai Shinkansen booking link:(add Omio link here)

Once we arrived in Sendai, we did not stay in the city. It looked like a big and modern city from the train station, but we only had two nights and I really wanted to focus on Matsushima, Tashirojima, and the coast.

From Sendai, we took a local train using our SUICA card to Takagimachi Station, which is the closest stop for where we were staying in Matsushima. The ride takes around 30 minutes.

As soon as we got off the train, the mood changed completely. It immediately felt quieter, slower, and more countryside-like.

Exactly what I wanted.

Lunch at Harry’s Junction in Matsushima

By the time we arrived, it was already lunch time, so we headed straight to Harry’s Junction for a burger.

The restaurant is tucked along one of the main streets near the station and has a funny American-inspired atmosphere, with lots of American references in the decor. It felt a bit unexpected in quiet Matsushima, which made it even more fun.

The burger and fries were very good, and it was a nice easy first meal before checking into the ryokan.

Staying at Ryokan Matsushima Koumura

After lunch, we checked into Ryokan Matsushima Koumura.

The location was really convenient: around 10 minutes on foot from Takagimachi Station, and about 15 minutes on foot from the main sightseeing area of Matsushima.

The owners were lovely, and our room was huge. We had two big tatami rooms and a bathroom, which felt very spacious and comfortable for two nights.

There is also an onsen inside the ryokan, on the 3rd floor. It is simple, just one indoor hot bath, separated between men and women, but it was perfectly enough after a full day of exploring.

You wash yourself first, then relax in the hot bath, and honestly this became one of the best parts of the trip. After walking all day, coming back to the ryokan, changing into the yukata, and going for a quiet bath felt so good.

It is exactly the kind of small, cozy ryokan experience I love.

Exploring Matsushima in the afternoon

Matsushima is famous for its bay full of small pine-covered islands, and it is considered one of Japan’s most scenic views.

But one thing to know before visiting: most attractions and shops close between 4pm and 5pm.

We arrived quite late in the afternoon, and I was a bit frustrated because I immediately realized we should have started earlier. Matsushima is definitely more of a morning and early-afternoon destination.

Still, we managed to explore quite a bit.

Fukuurajima and the red bridge

We started with Fukuurajima, the small island connected to the mainland by a long red bridge.

There is an entrance fee (300jpy), but it is worth it.

The island is very cute, with peaceful nature paths, trees, and views over the bay. It is not a difficult walk at all, but it gives you that nice feeling of escaping into nature for a little while.

The big red bridge is also one of the most photogenic spots in Matsushima.

Godaido Temple, Togetsukyo Bridge and Shinjū Inari Shrine

After Fukuurajima, we continued our little island hopping route around Matsushima.

We visited Godaido Temple, then crossed Togetsukyo Bridge, and continued to Shinjū Inari Shrine.

This last island felt really special.

There are sculpted cliffs, little paths, and a slightly mysterious atmosphere. It felt almost mystical. Apparently, it used to be a place for meditation, and I can completely understand why.

It is small, but take your time here. There are different paths and corners to discover, and the rocky cliffs make it feel very different from the rest of Matsushima.

Small shops and local crafts

Before everything closed, we also managed to visit a couple of shops.

I stopped at a kokeshi doll shop, where I bought two dolls, and also visited Art Gallery Atelier Zen, which had a really nice selection.

I always like bringing back something small from trips, especially when it feels connected to the region. The kokeshi dolls were perfect souvenirs.

Dinner in Matsushima and a scary earthquake moment

After exploring, we went back to the ryokan for an onsen bath, then went out again to look for dinner.

Matsushima is not the kind of place where you find lots of restaurants open late, so it is better to plan dinner a bit early.

We ended up eating at Kichitonaru, which was good. We ordered vegetable skewers and fried chicken.

And then, during dinner, there was an earthquake.

It was a 6.4 earthquake and honestly, it was really scary. But what helped was how calm everyone around us stayed. The Japanese people in the restaurant remained very composed, and kept saying “Daijōbu”, meaning “it’s okay”.

That calmness helped a lot.

It was definitely not the kind of travel memory you plan for, but it became one of the strongest memories of the trip.

Day 2: Visiting Tashirojima, Japan’s cat island

The next morning, we headed to Tashirojima, also known as Japan’s cat island, and honestly this was one of the highlights of the whole Miyagi trip.

From Matsushima, we took the local train from Takagimachi Station to Ishinomaki, then walked to the ferry port. The ferry takes around 40 minutes and brings you to this tiny, peaceful island where cats are literally everywhere: sleeping on the road, hiding in the shade, walking around the village, or gathering near cafés.

We arrived at Nitoda Port and walked across the island toward Odomari Port, passing by the small Cat Shrine and stopping at Shima no Eki Rest House, where there were so many cats. It seems to be one of the main places where they are fed, so of course they all gather there. There is also a cute little shop where you will absolutely buy a cat souvenir you didn’t know you needed.

The island is small, but that’s what makes it so nice. There is not much to do besides walking, watching cats, taking photos, eating your snacks, and enjoying the sea views. We arrived around 9:40am and left with the 1:55pm ferry, which was the perfect amount of time for a day trip.

I loved how peaceful it was, and also how funny it felt to be surrounded by other Japanese tourists who had also come all this way just for cats. I believe only nice people would do that :)

I wrote a full guide to visiting Tashirojima with ferry tips, walking route, cafés, and everything you need to know here: How to Visit Tashirojima Cat Island from Matsushima or Sendai.

Visiting Ishinomaki and learning about the 2011 tsunami

A big theme of this trip was the 2011 tsunami.

The tsunami hit this region very hard, especially around Ishinomaki and the Miyagi coast. Many people died, and even today the memory is very present.

You see tsunami evacuation signs everywhere, and there is a lot of prevention information around the area.

After returning from Tashirojima to Ishinomaki, we visited the tsunami museum, which is located in a memorial park in an area that was destroyed by the tsunami.

The museum is brand new, from 2021, and free to visit.

It is touching, emotional, and really worth seeing.

You can also visit a school that was left as it was after the tsunami and transformed into a museum. The entrance costs 600 yen and includes an interesting documentary with interviews from the teachers who had to help the students escape.

It is not an easy visit, but I think it is important.

It adds a lot of context to the region and makes you understand Miyagi beyond the beautiful islands and seafood.

Dinner in Ishinomaki

After the museum, we ended the day with fish at Tomofukumaru.

The restaurant had a nice view over the river and the manga museum, and it was a good way to end a full day in Ishinomaki before taking the local train back to Matsushima.

Then it was time for one last onsen evening at the ryokan.

Honestly, after a full day of trains, ferries, walking, cats, museums, and seafood, the onsen felt perfect and we fell asleep super early.

Day 3: Temples, tea and Matsushima Bay cruise

On Sunday morning, I finally had the Matsushima experience I had been hoping for.

The atmosphere was much livelier than on Friday afternoon. Around 11am on Sunday, there were more people, more shops open, and the town felt much more alive.

It made me realize again that Matsushima is best visited earlier in the day.

Visiting Zuiganji Temple

I started the morning with Zuiganji Temple, which is a national treasure.

It was beautiful.

The gold-painted panels inside were stunning, and the zen gardens were peaceful and elegant. It is definitely worth visiting if you are in Matsushima.

I did not have time to visit Entsuin Temple, but it looked really nice too. I would add it next time if I had a bit more time.

Matcha at Kanrantei Tea House

After Zuiganji, I went to Kanrantei Tea House.

I did not know before going that it also has beautiful gold-painted panels inside, so that was a nice surprise.

I had matcha with a traditional sweet while sitting on tatami mats overlooking the bay.

It was one of those simple Japan travel moments that feel very calm and special: sitting quietly, drinking tea, looking at the water and the little islands.

A perfect Sunday morning.

Matsushima Bay cruise to Shiogama

Instead of taking the train directly back to Sendai, we decided to take the Matsushima Bay cruise to Shiogama.

This was a very good idea.

The cruise takes around 40 minutes and goes through the bay, passing many of the small islands. There was English commentary, and the boat slowed down near some of the interesting island formations so you could properly see them.

It is short, easy, and very pleasant.

Departures seemed to be every hour between 10am and 3pm, but definitely double-check the schedule online before going.

Once we arrived in Shiogama, we took the local train from Shiogama to Sendai, which takes around 30 minutes.

But first: sushi.

Sushi in Shiogama

Shiogama is known for tuna and seafood, so we had to eat fish before leaving.

We went to Sushi Tetsu, and it was super delicious.

It was the perfect last meal before heading back to Tokyo.

Fresh sushi, a port town atmosphere, and one final seafood moment before returning to the city.

After that, we took the train back to Sendai, then the Shinkansen back to Tokyo Station.

Final thoughts on visiting Miyagi Prefecture

This 3-day weekend in Miyagi was such a good surprise.

It was easy to organize from Tokyo, but it felt completely different: quieter, more local, more peaceful, and very connected to the sea.

Matsushima was beautiful, especially on Sunday morning when the town felt alive. Tashirojima was pure happiness if you love cats. Ishinomaki was emotional and important because of the tsunami memorials. And the seafood in Shiogama was the best possible ending.

I also really liked that the whole trip worked without renting a car. We did everything by Shinkansen, local train, ferry, and walking, using our SUICA card for most local transport.

For a 3-day weekend from Tokyo, Miyagi is a really nice option if you want something a bit different from the usual Kyoto, Osaka, Hakone or Nikko routes.

It has nature, cats, onsen, temples, seafood, and history — all in one short trip.

And yes, I would definitely go back.

I work at Omio. This article is based on my own trip and personal experience. Some Omio links in this post are tracked links, but I do not receive any personal commission if you use them.